With 40,000 people attending each of the 3 days of the festival, Primavera Sound has become one of the biggest city festivals in Europe. Celebrating its 11th edition and set in the Parc del Forum area of Barcelona, a total of 221 bands played over the 10 stages located on the shores of the Mediterranean.
Having grown in size and duration over the years Primavera Sound now lasts 5 days and takes place in various sites throughout the city, with the main festival on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights.
Friday night started with The National, playing on the second largest stage at the festival with the setting sun creating a magical backdrop to their set, the highlights being ‘Anyone’s Ghost’ and ‘Bloodbuzz Ohio’ from their High Violet album. The band were joined onstage for their last two songs by Sufjan Stevens, who had played a solo set earlier in the afternoon, which kept the heavily bearded male musos in the crowd happy.
It seemed like the majority of the public were watching The National, or at least they were not watching Pere Ubu, a legendary name who I was intrigued to see live. Playing to just a handful of people singer David Thomas demonstrated not only his love of Remi Martin cognac, by swigging from a bottle between performing songs from their 1978 debut album The Modern Dance, but also his love for the theatrical and avant-garde with a full on act, interspersed with anecdotes which was lapped up by the devoted fans.
On the main stage and 8 years after their last Primavera appearance ‘el twee pop escocés’ of Belle and Sebastian, who opened with ‘I Didn’t See It Coming’ though due to some technical problems with the sound it was a low key start to a set which grew with each song. Older tracks, ‘Lord Anthony’ and ‘La Pastie de la Bourgeoisie’ got the crowd truly warmed up and by the time ‘The Boy With the Arab Strap’ was played singer Stuart Murdoch had invited members of the audience onstage for a dance. ‘Sleep the Clock Around’ was a great way to end their set, but not before the group had teased the crowd by squeezing a chorus of ‘Common People’ in to the song, setting things up nicely for the next band on stage.
For many, the reformed Pulp were the only reason needed for attending this year’s Primavera. Their first gig back together in Spain for some 14 years and the first time I had seen them since T in the Park 1998 did not disappoint. From the opening notes of ‘Do You Remember the First Time’ Jarvis Cocker had the entire audience following his every move and listening to his every word, reminding us of what a legendary front man he is. Playing tracks taken mostly from their two biggest selling albums His N Hers and Different Class Jarvis slouched, danced and joked between songs and got a great cheer when he dedicated ‘Common People’ to the peaceful demonstrations that were taking place in the centre of Barcelona. A great way to end the Friday night, and for those with tickets for Pulp this Summer in the UK, you will not be disappointed.
Saturday night was a mixture of music and football. FC Barcelona were playing against Manchester United in the Champions League final and the festival organisers had decided to change the times on the Llevant stage and show the final on the large screens there, which attracted a crowd of some 10,000 who saw a victory for the Catalan side which gave a celebratory feeling to the rest of the night. PJ Harvey had also asked for her set time to be moved so as not to clash with the football, but I found the comedown from watching such an incredible, emotion packed match to listening to an off sounding band and a singer I have never had much time for too much, so I headed over to the Ray-Ban stage in time to see the brutal, industrial rock of Einstürzende Neubauten.
The second Scottish act to headline one of the main stages over the weekend was for me the highlight of the weekend. Mogwai came on stage at 00:15, with drummer Martin getting a special cheer when he took the stage wearing his retro FC Barcelona top. The band played a 90 minute set of old favourites ‘Mogwai Fear Satan’ and ‘Hunted By A Freak ’as well as tracks from latest album Hardcore Will Never Die, But You Will, including ‘San Pedro’, a brilliant ‘George Square Thatcher Death Party’ and a charged ‘Batcat’ to finish. While I think it is difficult to be let down by Mogwai live there was an extra energy and force from tonight’s performance with a lot of joking between band members and certain pals they spotted in the audience which, along with the sound, which was turned up to 11 gave the perfect festival show.
I headed to the main stage to catch Animal Collective but in reality, I knew that whoever I was going to see would not have been able to surpass the sensations left by Mogwai. Apart from the set list which was made up almost entirely of unknown tracks (confirmed by my Animal Collective obsessive festival going pal who could only name 2 of the 10 songs they played), and the sound on the main stage which was a let-down once again, the band seemed uninterested and left a feeling of deception for a band who can be a brilliant live experience.
I would recommend Primavera to anyone thinking of enjoying an overseas festival. There is always an eclectic line up and there are few better cities in Europe to visit where you can enjoy both the music on offer at night as well as visit one of the world’s great cities during the day. Primavera Sound 2012 should take place in May 2012 but Primavera Sound also organise a mini festival in Madrid and Barcelona every year in December.
(More at www.primaverasound.com)